Steirereck Vienna Review: Austria’s Most Iconic Three-Star Restaurant

For me, Steirereck in Vienna is not just any restaurant – it’s the place that first opened the door to the world of haute cuisine. When I first visited, it was still located on the corner of Rasumofskygasse, led by Heinz Reitbauer Sr. with Helmut Österreicher as head chef. Already back then, it stood out for a new interpretation of Austrian cuisine – regional, modern, and visionary – and for innovations such as the legendary bread trolley.

I returned many times since. In fact, Steirereck is one of the three-star restaurants I have visited most frequently – and for good reason.

In 2005, the restaurant moved into a beautifully converted former dairy in the Stadtpark – a move that cemented Steirereck’s place at the top of Vienna’s fine dining scene. For many years, it was considered Austria’s best restaurant – until Amador received three Michelin stars in 2019. With the return of a full Michelin Guide Austria in 2025, Steirereck finally received its long-awaited and well-deserved third star.

Heinz Reitbauer’s Cuisine

Critics describe Heinz Reitbauer’s cuisine as a quiet revolution: deeply rooted in Austrian product culture, focused on seasonality, regionality, and executed with intellectual precision. His style is vegetable-forward, often showcasing foraged herbs, fermentations, and subtle reductions. The dishes are light, elegant, and balanced, never loud – but always thoughtful and full of character.

A Lunch Visit in October 2025

On a golden October day, I returned for lunch. The location in the Stadtpark couldn’t have been more beautiful – autumn light filtering through the trees, the glass-walled dining rooms offering a serene view of nature.

After a glass of Bollinger PN TX 20, I opted for the seven-course tasting menu (€265), with the wine pairing.

The Menu: Depth Without Drama

The meal was inspired by the season and built around Austrian ingredients, but always with an intellectual, almost scientific edge. Reitbauer’s dishes don’t aim to overwhelm – they reveal their depth slowly, quietly, deliberately.

Many three-star restaurants follow a fixed format where guests surrender entirely to the chef’s vision, often with a single tasting menu that remains unchanged for an entire season. Amador and Aponiente are examples of this approach. Steirereck takes a different path. Its seven-course tasting menu offers two options for each course, allowing guests to shape their own experience while preserving the flow of the meal. In addition, the à la carte section at lunch combines refined seasonal dishes with Viennese classics such as Wiener Schnitzel or Beuschel. It is a restaurant one could visit several times a month without ever feeling repetition, a rare quality at this level.

Alpine Char – Parsnip, Blackberry, Sea Buckthorn
A dish that embodies subtle power. The char was cured in citrus garum and paired with earthy parsnip, a tart note of sea buckthorn, and a whisper of forest fruit. Refined and clean, with perfect balance.

Badger Flame – Buchu, Lemon, Sunflower
A dish that reflects Steirereck’s essence: origin, research, and quiet precision. The glowing Badger Flame beet, developed at Dan Barber’s Stone Barns Center in New York, is gently braised and glazed with Buchu, a South African herb with hints of mint and blackcurrant. Calamansi-marinated kumquats, pomelo, and a Buchu-lime broth add freshness and tension — a subtle harmony of sweetness, earth, and citrus.

Catfish – Puntarelle, Ground Elder, Garum
Grilled over charcoal, the catfish was firm and juicy. Puntarelle gave a bitter crunch, while wild ground elder and a touch of garum added herbal and umami complexity. A nod to Roman cuisine, with Alpine soul.

Pheasant – Red Cabbage, Parsley Root, Lovage
The Weinviertel pheasant was gently cooked on the bone, keeping the meat tender and juicy. It was served with parsnip and red cabbage, accented by orange, pepperoncino and a delicate orange–verjus gelée. A pheasant jus with lovage oiladded herbal depth, while a red cabbage butter foam brought richness and balance. A refined, modern take on Austrian game.

Venison – Summer Squash, Lemon Balm, Hazelnut
The young venison was roasted and glazed, paired with redcurrant, fennel and Szechuan pepper for a fine balance of sweetness and spice. The spinach, marinated with lemon balm, added a fresh herbal note, while summer squash with Tropea onion and salted lemon brought gentle acidity. A small portion of slow-cooked venison heart added depth, and a velouté of salted lemon and lemon balm oil tied everything together.

Bread & Cheese Trolleys
No visit to Steirereck is complete without the legendary bread ritual. The bread is personally served by “Brot Andi” – a true Viennese original – with passion, knowledge, and a touch of theatre. Don’t miss the famous blunzen bread (blood sausage bread), still as addictive as ever.

The cheese trolley remains one of the best in the German-speaking world, featuring a superb selection of cheeses accompanied by house-made chutneys.

Orchard Fruit – Honey, Rosemary Sugar, Apple
A dessert rooted in Austrian seasonality. A baked Jonathan apple, aromatic and juicy, contrasted with floral honey and hints of rosemary. Subtle, autumnal, perfect.

The Meierei – A Hidden Gem Next Door

Steirereck’s casual sibling, the Meierei, deserves a mention. Located in the same building, overlooking the Wien river, it shares the same kitchen team and product philosophy. A perfect place for lunch or breakfast, with honest dishes and fair prices – one of Vienna’s best-kept secrets for food lovers.

Verdict

In my opinion, Steirereck is the best restaurant in Vienna – and an essential stop for any serious gourmet visiting the city. The location in the Stadtpark is idyllic, the service professional and warm, and the atmosphere calm and sophisticated. Heinz Reitbauer shows how Austrian cuisine can be modern, precise and rooted, without ever becoming didactic or dull. A restaurant of quiet confidence – and lasting depth.


Read also my reviews of Tohru in Munich and Haerlin in Hamburg, the latest three-Michelin-star restaurants in Germany.